FAQ – Swenson's Jewelry & Timepieces

Frequently Asked Questions

We've got answers.

Click the section to expand. If your questions are still not answer, please contact us. We're happy to help.

Are your watches authentic?

Yes. Every branded watch we sell is genuine, and we inspect each piece in hand before it is listed. We are a physical jewelry and watch shop in Snohomish, Washington, not a drop-shipper, and our name is on every sale.

If a watch has any replaced or non-original component, we say so in the listing.

How do I know the condition is really what you say it is?

We photograph the actual watch you're buying and we describe flaws rather than hiding them. Where we are uncertain about something, we say we are uncertain instead of guessing.

For mechanical watches we go a step further and publish timegrapher readings: rate, amplitude, and beat error. Those are measurements you can verify yourself when it arrives.

Do you sell anything you have not had in your hands?

No. Every piece in the shop has been physically inspected here before it was listed for sale.

Do watches come with the original box and papers?

Usually not, and the listing always says. Most of our pre-owned and vintage pieces come as watch-only and are priced accordingly. Box and papers add real value, so a watch without them should cost less.

Swenson's Originals ship with a box and papers.

Can I see a watch in person before buying?

Yes. We are a located in Snohomish, Washington. get in touch and we will arrange it.

Do you take trade-ins, or buy watches?

Get in touch and tell us what you have. We are always looking.

How do I reach you with a question about a specific piece?

Contact us and tell us which watch you are looking at. Questions about fit, condition, and movement health are the ones we most like getting, and asking before you buy is how you end up with the right watch. Which is what all of us want.

What do you check before a watch goes up for sale?

Every piece is inspected in hand before it is listed. We go through the case and caseback markings, the crystal, the dial and hands, the crown and pushers, the bracelet or strap and its clasp, and the movement's condition and function.

Then we photograph the actual watch, record what we found — including the flaws — and write the listing from those notes rather than from a reference catalog.

Do you test that the watch actually runs?

Yes, and we tell you what we measured. For mechanical watches we publish timegrapher readings taken at the time of listing: rate, amplitude, and beat error.

If a watch is not running, or runs intermittently, or has a function that does not work, the listing says so plainly. We do not describe a watch as working unless it is working here on the bench.

What do the timegrapher numbers mean?

Three different things about a movement's health:

Rate: how fast or slow it is running, in seconds per day
Amplitude: how far the balance wheel swings, which reflects the condition of the mainspring and the lubrication
Beat error: how evenly the movement ticks in each direction

Most sellers publish rate alone, or nothing at all. Amplitude and beat error are what tell you whether a movement is genuinely healthy or merely running.

Is a timegrapher reading a guarantee of how the watch will keep time?

No, and we would rather be straight about that than let the numbers imply more than they can.

A reading is a measurement of the movement at one moment, on our bench, in the position we measured it. Mechanical watches vary with position, with how wound they are, with temperature, and with wear. A healthy movement can read a few seconds a day different at your house than at ours, and magnetism alone can shift it by minutes.

The numbers tell you the movement is in good health. They are not a specification.

Do you service watches before selling them?

We tell you what we know. Service history, replaced parts, and anything we are unsure about all go in the listing.

Unless a listing says a piece has been recently serviced, assume it has not been. A vintage mechanical watch that has not been serviced in a while will eventually want attention from a watchmaker, and that is normal for the category rather than a fault.

What happens when you cannot verify something?

We say so. If a caseback stamp is worn past reading, if a reference number is ambiguous, if we cannot confirm whether a part is original. The listing tells you that instead of filling the gap with a guess.

An honest "we are not certain" is worth more to you than a confident answer that turns out to be wrong.

Are the Swenson's Originals pressure tested?

No. Our hand-assembled pieces have not been pressure tested, so we do not publish a water resistance rating for them regardless of what is printed on the dial.Treat them as not water resistant until a test says otherwise.Any watchmaker can pressure test one in a few minutes if you want the certainty.

What is a Swenson's Original?

A watch we build ourselves, one at a time, on the bench in Snohomish. We assemble each one from components we select: case, dial, hands, bracelet or strap, and a Seiko NH-series automatic movement with our own SJT-branded dial.

Every build gets a sapphire crystal.

Are they handmade?

No, and the distinction matters enough that we would rather be precise about it.

They are hand-assembled. We do not fabricate the components. We do not make movements or machine cases. We select parts and assemble them ourselves, carefully, and we stand behind the result with a one-year warranty.

"Handmade" would imply independent watchmaking, and that is not what this is. Hand-assembled is the accurate term, and it is what the modding world actually says.

Whose movement is inside?

Seiko NH-series automatics — NH34, NH35, NH36, or NH38 depending on the build. The individual listing names the exact caliber.

They are the movements independent builders reach for: reliable, serviceable by any watchmaker, roughly 41 hours of power reserve, and still running in twenty years.

Our dials carry our own logo. Only the movement is Seiko, and we are not affiliated with or endorsed by Seiko or any other manufacturer.

What is the warranty on an Original?

One year against defects in workmanship and materials, from the date of delivery.

It does not cover normal wear, accidental damage, water damage beyond the piece's stated rating, or battery replacement.

Are they one-of-a-kind?

Each of our current builds is a single piece. When one sells, that exact combination is gone.

Why is there no water resistance rating on a watch whose dial says 300M?

Because that marking was printed by the dial manufacturer and it describes the dial, not the assembled watch.

Whether a watch actually holds pressure depends on the caseback gasket, the crown, and the crystal seal working together. Our Originals have not been pressure tested, so we do not repeat a number we cannot stand behind.

Some of these are called dive watches but are not water resistant. Is that a contradiction?

Fair question. "Dive watch" describes a design — the rotating bezel, the case shape, the luminous markers, the general build. It is a style category, and it is what people search for.

What it does not do on an untested Original is promise a depth rating. We would rather use the accurate style term and tell you plainly about the testing than dress it up in either direction.

One of your cases is bronze-tone. Will it change color?

Depends which one, and the listing will tell you.

Bronze-tone plated cases keep their finish under normal wear, though like any plating it can eventually show wear where the case rubs most.

Solid bronze genuinely patinas. Meaning it darkens and mottles over time, and no two end up alike. That is the material doing what it is supposed to do, not tarnishing and not a defect. Some people buy bronze specifically for it. Copper alloys can also leave a mark on damp skin, which washes off.

We always specify which you are getting. Bronze-tone means plated. We never call a plated case pure bronze.

What is a GMT, and how is it different from a regular watch?

A GMT has a fourth hand that tracks a second time zone on a 24-hour scale.

Ours is a caller GMT. The 24-hour hand adjusts independently, which is ideal for keeping an eye on another time zone from home. The local hour hand does not jump on its own the way a true traveler GMT does.

Can you build a watch to my specifications?

Yes. Tell us what you are after and we will tell you honestly whether it is something we can build, what it would cost, and how long it would take.

The best commissions start with a conversation rather than a parts list. If you know exactly what you want, great. If you only know the feeling you are after, that works too.

How does the process work?

Tell us what you have in mind. You can contact us here. Include as much or as little detail as you have.
We quote it. You get the price, the lead time, and a clear description of what we will build before you pay anything.
You approve, and we take a deposit. The build does not start until the spec is agreed in writing.
We build it and send you photos before it ships.
Balance due, then it ships. Packaged and insured like everything else.

How long does a commission take?

Typically 8 weeks from the day the spec is approved, depending on what needs to be sourced. Parts availability is usually what sets the pace rather than the build itself.

If something we have planned turns out to be unavailable, we will come back to you with options rather than substituting quietly.

Do I pay up front?

A 50% deposit starts the build, with the balance due before it ships. The deposit covers the components we buy specifically for your piece.

What can I choose?

Most of the visible watch: case, dial, hands, bezel, crystal, strap or bracelet, and which NH-series movement goes inside. Every build gets a sapphire crystal.

What we cannot do is fabricate components. We do not machine cases or make movements. We select good parts and assemble them well. If what you want requires a part that does not exist, we will tell you that rather than approximate it and hope.

Can I return a commissioned piece if I change my mind?

A piece built to your specification is final sale, and we will tell you that clearly in writing before anything starts.

The reason is straightforward: a watch built to your taste is difficult for us to sell to anyone else. It is also why we send photos before it ships and why we agree the spec in writing first — we would much rather sort out a concern before the watch is finished than after.

This applies only to commissions. Finished pieces already in the shop, including the Swenson's Originals, follow our normal 14-day return policy.

Is a commission covered by the warranty?

Yes. A commissioned build carries the same 1-year warranty against defects in workmanship and materials as any Swenson's Original, starting from the date of delivery.

Final sale and warranty are different things. Final sale means you cannot return it for a change of mind. Warranty means if we built it wrong, we fix it.

Will you build another one just like it?

Tell us when you commission a piece if being the only one matters to you, and we will note it.

Can you modify a watch I already own?

Ask us. Whether we can depends entirely on the watch and what you have in mind, and there are pieces where the honest answer is that modifying it would cost more than it adds. We will tell you if that is the case.

What does "sold as-is" actually mean?

It means we are not warrantying a decades-old movement against future failure. It does not mean you are gambling on getting what we described.

We stand behind the accuracy of every listing regardless of warranty. If a watch is described as working and arrives not functioning as described, contact us within 7 days of delivery and we will make it right.

What as-is covers is the honest reality that a sixty-year-old mechanical watch may need service at some point, and we cannot promise when.

My watch's case says gold. Is it solid gold?

Read the caseback stamp, and we will always tell you in the listing.

14K, 18K, 585, 750 mean solid gold
GOLD FILLED or 10K GF mean a thick bonded gold layer, durable
RGP, HGE, GOLD ELECTROPLATE mean plating, thinner
BASE METAL means no gold content at all

The absence of a marking is itself information: precious metal content is legally required to be stamped, so a case reading BASE METAL is telling you plainly that there is nothing to test for.

We say gold-tone or gold-plated base metal when that is what it is. We never call a plated case gold.

Is patina or aging a defect?

On a dial, no. Cream-aged dials and warm patina are genuinely desirable and collectors seek them out. We describe them as what they are.

On a plated case it is different, and we describe that plainly too. Real wear-through on plating looks like a different metal, coppery pink against the gold, concentrated where the case rubs. If a case is clean, we say clean.

Why is this vintage watch only 32mm? Is it a women's watch?

It is a normal men's watch from its era, and it is genuinely unisex now.

Watches got much larger from the 1990s onward. A 32 to 36mm case was standard for decades, and smaller sizes are a strong and growing segment again. They wear beautifully on almost any wrist. We list them as unisex because restricting them to one audience would be inaccurate.

Will you tell me if a vintage watch has been serviced?

Yes, wherever we know. Service history, replaced parts, and anything we are uncertain about all go in the listing.

Some listings say the caseback markings are worn. Is that bad?

No. Caseback stamping wears smooth on watches that were actually worn, which is most of them. It says nothing about how a watch runs.

It occasionally makes a reference number harder to read, and when that happens we tell you rather than guessing at it.

My old watch says WATERPROOF on the caseback. Is it safe in water?

No, and it is a useful dating clue instead. The FTC pushed "waterproof" out of American watch advertising in the late 1960s, so a case stamped with that word is almost certainly pre-1968.

A seventy-year-old case stamped waterproof emphatically is not. Keep it dry.

Can you get parts for a vintage watch if something breaks?

Sometimes, and sometimes not. Parts for older movements can be scarce, and for some references they are effectively unobtainable.

We are glad to point you at a watchmaker who will give you a straight answer about a specific piece, but we cannot promise that parts will be available for a vintage watch years from now. That is part of what owning one means.

Can I swim or shower with my watch?

Assume no unless the listing specifically says otherwise.

Water resistance ratings decrease over time as seals age, and they vary enormously between pieces. Check the individual listing for your watch's rating and treat any vintage watch conservatively.

We recommend avoiding submersion in a vintage piece regardless of its original rating, unless it has been recently pressure tested.

What does a rating like 50M or 100M actually allow?

Less than the number suggests, because the figure comes from a static pressure test rather than from swimming.

As a practical rule: 30M means splashes and handwashing, not submersion. 50M means brief contact with water. 100M and above is where swimming starts being reasonable on a watch known to be in good seal condition. Any watch with a worn gasket is a watch that leaks, whatever is printed on the dial.

If the listing for your piece gives a rating, that is the number to go by. If it does not, treat the watch as not water resistant.

Why do you not list a rating for the Originals?

Because they have not been pressure tested. The dial marking describes the dial, not the assembled watch, and whether a watch holds pressure depends on the caseback gasket, the crown, and the crystal seal working together.

We do not publish numbers we have not verified. Any watchmaker can pressure test one in a few minutes.

How do I know if the seals are still good?

The only real answer is a pressure test, and it is inexpensive. If water resistance genuinely matters to you, like you swim in your watch, or you work outdoors; have any watch pressure tested when you buy it and then every couple of years after, along with servicing.

Signs of a problem are visible: condensation under the crystal, a dial that looks foggy in the morning, or rust-colored specks near the edges. If you see any of those, get it opened and dried out promptly rather than waiting.

Why is my automatic watch suddenly running fast?

Almost always magnetism, and it is not damage.

Magnetic phone mounts, laptop speakers, tablet covers, magnetic cabinet catches and bag clasps will all magnetize a mechanical movement, and a magnetized watch can gain minutes a day. Any watchmaker can demagnetize it in about a minute, usually for very little. It is the single most common reason a healthy mechanical watch starts keeping bad time.

Is there a wrong time to change the date?

Yes, and this is the one we most want you to read.

If your watch has a date or day-date, do not change it between roughly 9pm and 3am. During those hours the movement has already engaged the date-change mechanism, and forcing the quickset while it is under load can break the teeth that advance the wheel. It is the most common way an owner damages an otherwise healthy watch, and it is an expensive repair for a completely avoidable reason.

Move the hands past noon first, then set the date, then set the time. If you are not sure whether the watch is showing AM or PM, advance the hands and watch for the date to flip. That flip is midnight.

My automatic stopped. Is it broken?

Almost certainly not. Most of the movements in our builds hold roughly 41 hours of power reserve, so a watch that sits for more than a day or two will stop and need winding and resetting.

That is completely normal and does it no harm. Wearing an automatic regularly is what keeps it wound and running accurately.

Do I need a watch winder?

No. They are a convenience for someone who owns several automatics and wants them all running, not a requirement, and a watch is not harmed by being allowed to stop.

How should I store it?

In a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight. A watch box or a soft pouch is ideal. The goal is keeping it from getting knocked, scratched, or sitting next to something magnetic.

Wipe it down with a soft, dry cloth after wear, especially if you have been sweating or have been near salt air.

How do I clean it?

Metal cases and bracelets: a soft, slightly damp cloth is usually enough. Avoid harsh chemicals, and avoid ultrasonic cleaners unless you know the watch is rated for it.
Leather straps: keep them away from prolonged water exposure and direct sunlight, both of which dry and crack leather over time.

Do not run water over a watch to rinse it unless you know its seals are sound.

What is the deal with screw-down crowns?

If your watch has one, make sure it is fully seated and tightened after setting the time. An unscrewed crown is the most common way water gets into a watch that was otherwise perfectly capable of keeping it out.

Anything else that damages watches more than people expect?

Three things, all avoidable:

Extreme temperature swings. Rapid shifts from hot to cold affect gaskets and lubrication over time. A sauna or a hot car is harder on a watch than a cold day.
Impacts on the crown. A knock that lands on the crown can bend the stem, which is a worse repair than a scratched case.
Sunscreen and perfume on leather. Both break leather down quickly. A strap is replaceable, so this is a small problem. But it is a faster one than people expect.

Can I change the strap myself?

Yes, and it is one of the cheapest ways to make a watch feel new. You need the lug width, which is the distance between the lugs in millimeters, and a spring bar tool.

Check the listing for the lug width on your piece. If it is not there, email us and we will measure it for you.

How often does a mechanical watch need servicing?

Typically every three years or so, depending on the movement and how often it is worn. Vintage pieces benefit from staying closer to that schedule.

Happy to recommend a trusted watchmaker if you would like a referral.

What if I am not sure how to care for a specific piece?

Ask us. Contact us with which watch you own and what you are wondering about. We would much rather answer a question than repair something avoidable.

How much is shipping?

Free within the lower 48 states. Alaska, Hawaii, and U.S. territories are calculated at checkout based on value and destination.

How fast do you ship?

Orders typically ship within 2 business days. You will get a confirmation email with tracking as soon as it goes out.

Is my watch insured in transit?

Every order ships with tracking. Orders over $500 ship with signature confirmation required and are insured for the full purchase price.

Every piece is packaged to prevent movement in transit, and high-value items get additional protection.

Do you ship internationally?

To select countries, yes. But please contact us before ordering so we can confirm availability and cost for your destination.

We quote international orders individually rather than automatically, because insurance coverage on watches varies significantly by country and carrier, and we would rather confirm a package is properly covered before it leaves than discover otherwise afterward.

International buyers are responsible for any customs duties or import taxes charged by their own country.

Can I return it if I change my mind?

Yes, within 14 days of delivery, provided it comes back in the same condition it was sent, with all original packaging, box, and papers where those were included.

For a change-of-mind return, you cover return shipping. If something arrives significantly not as described, we cover it. There is no restocking fee either way.

Contact us with your order number before shipping anything back.

Are any items not returnable?

Pieces built to your specification are final sale, and that is stated clearly on the listing and confirmed with you in writing before a commission starts. Everything else follows the normal 14-day window.

How long do refunds take?

Once we have received and inspected the return, we process the refund to your original payment method within 3 business days.

What if my order arrives damaged, or does not arrive at all?

Contact us within 7 days of the expected delivery date so we can file a carrier claim and make it right. Keep all original packaging if something arrives damaged, carriers usually require it.

What if the watch arrives not running?

If a watch was described as working and arrives not functioning as described, contact us within 7 days of delivery and we will make it right. That applies to everything in the shop, including pieces sold as-is.

Will this watch fit my wrist?

Check the listing, we give wrist measurements for every strap and bracelet, not just case size.

This matters most on watches with fixed bracelets and no spare links, where there is a hard maximum. If a listing says it fits up to 7 inches, that is a real limit rather than a guideline. Ask us if you are between sizes.

What is the difference between case size and lug-to-lug?

Case size is the diameter. Lug-to-lug is the distance across the case from tip to tip, and it is the better predictor of how a watch actually wears.

A 35mm watch with a 38mm lug-to-lug wears larger than the diameter suggests. We list both where we have them, because 35mm alone makes some watches sound much smaller than they feel.

What is a good size for a smaller wrist?

Look at anything in the 32 to 39mm range and check the lug-to-lug figure. Several of our vintage pieces sit right in there, and they are genuinely unisex.

Tell us your wrist measurement and we will point you at what fits.

Can a bracelet be sized down, or extended?

Usually down, sometimes not up. Most bracelets can have links removed, and we will tell you in the listing whether spare links are included.

Adding length is the harder direction. It needs matching links, which for a vintage bracelet may not exist. If a listing gives a maximum wrist size, treat it as the real ceiling.

How do I measure my wrist?

Wrap a soft tape measure or a strip of paper around your wrist just past the bone, snug but not tight, and note the measurement in inches. That number is what to compare against the maximum in the listing.